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If you forget all about the Crack in the Wall and take the hardest route for the first time, you will not be disappointed. Straight up, at my pace, fast. Though it seems like a long way up, it does not feel like that at all. With a short, quick section of nasty class 2 moves and maybe even 3, the climb moves above tree line and into a very different place.
For years, that's where climbers began to stick it; the super topo just didn't exist. The original climbers who invented the Crack in the Wall, didn’t know how to finish. They would leave a ledge at the top, and descend the steep wall below the ledge. When I was young, people wanted to be first down the Crack in the Wall and you could get a trophy in your hands when the climb was graded.
Unlike in the lower reaches, the following rocky section has an iron heart leading up to the first rope grove on top where you can see the summit. In the past, it is possible to see the climbers extending the rope up the wall. In my more desperate days, it was quite common for me to see someone hanging to the side of the wall before starting their climb.
The following section is made up of large, rounded overhangs, which are hard to describe, but easy to use. Morphing contours, and solid views from the top give you the impression of moving through the world, not into it. The rock is always there to eat your placement, yet still holds a dangerously enticing appearance.
We are sandwiched between a couple of ridges, which is the most exposed location on the climb; the next pass will be the most beautiful. On such a cobbled section of rocks we climb overhung technique, up through the massif. We move far above the tree line and into the Indian summer, where most climbs take place. Looking over the summit from the low point, the walk up the other side appears almost as far as the Canyon. More glorious views unfold as you climb clockwise around the point.
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